Angel Dust or Angel Bust? Victoria’s Secret Returns, But Is It Enough?
Angel Dust or Angel Bust? Victoria’s Secret Returns, But Is It Enough?
By Joda Amankrah
© Cover photo: WWD/ Getty Images
Cue the Wings, Cue the Glitter, Cue the Feathers:
The 15th of October 2024 marked the return of the notorious Victoria’s Secret Show, and I use the word notorious only because of the onslaught of criticism that Victoria’s Secret has received in recent years (and honestly, continues to receive).
“The Victoria's Secret show has long been a place where we see only one type of woman—tall, slim, and white. It's time for the industry to acknowledge the beauty in every woman, no matter her shape, size, or skin colour.”
– Brittney Johnson“For years, I was told that the only way for me to be valuable or seen as beautiful was to be thin. I was not able to separate my self-worth from how I looked, and I believed that women were supposed to look like Victoria's Secret models to be worthy.”
– Jameela Jamil“Victoria's Secret needs to stop selling a lie. Beauty comes in all sizes, and their show only shows one.”
– Ashley Graham
Victoria’s Secret’s downfall wasn’t just about shifting public opinion, but also declining sales. With the rise of Queen RiRi’s Savage X Fenty and other brands embracing bodies of all types, Victoria’s Secret’s market share dwindled significantly by the 2020s. Hundreds of stores closed, and their parent company, L Brands, announced a shocking $2.1 billion loss, a large chunk of which was attributable to Victoria’s Secret.
Following the notable flop of The Tour ‘23, the Angels had something to prove: could the 2024 show restore their once unshakeable market dominance and recapture the hearts of fans? Let’s dive in.
Out with the Old, In with the New?
I wouldn’t exactly say so—the old was very much back, as Vogue Australia described it, “The Supers are back.”
Adriana Lima, Jasmine Tookes, Barbara Palvin, Grace Elizabeth, and Joan Smalls were among the Angels who agreed to shimmy into their wings and return to the VS runway.
But the nostalgia didn’t stop with past Angels—plastered to my sofa, squinting at my computer screen, my housemate and I let out whooping gasps as the one and only Kate Moss made her Victoria’s Secret debut. Strutting to Joan Jett & The Blackhearts’ I Love Rock ‘n’ Roll, Kate Moss was Victoria’s Secret’s surefire way of ensuring their place in the headlines the next day.
With walks from age-old favourites like Irina Shayk, Gigi Hadid, Alessandra Ambrosio, the ‘Princess of Nazareth’ Miss Bella Hadid, and, of course, Tyra Banks—Victoria’s Secret’s first Black contract and cover model—the air of nostalgia was impossible to ignore.
From the Ashes, New Angels Emerged
Milly’s article last week detailed the rise of the nepo-baby, and it would be practically illegal not to mention Lila Moss, who breezed down the runway in a pair of personalised wings. Designed to sell out the ‘LILA VS’, the wings sparked a bit of drama on social media. Fans were quick to call out the optics—why did Lila, a brand-new Angel, get her own bespoke wings, while seasoned veterans like Candice Swanepoel were relegated to wings that looked like they had been made out of glorified pipe cleaners?
Dimitrios Kambouris/Getty Images for Victoria’s Secret
But beyond the buzz around Lila’s wings, the show introduced a fresh wave of talent. Enter Alex Consani, the internet sensation turned high-fashion model who made her VS debut this season. She was joined by other rising stars like Devyn Garcia, He Cong, and Jill Kortleve.
Alongside the younger models came the inclusion of older ones: Carla Bruni and Eva Herzigová were among the more seasoned models who took to the runway, ensuring Victoria’s Secret appealed not just to younger audiences but older ones as well.
While the seasoned models were able to sashay to the beat of performances by Tyla, Blackpink’s Lisa, and Cher, a few of the younger models still have some steps to perfect.
Kevin Mazur/Getty Images
The fresh wave of change came not just from younger, more youthful models, but also from a more inclusive range of talent: plus-size models like Ashley Graham and Paloma Elsesser, transgender models such as Alex Consani and Valentina Sampaio, and a diverse group of faces representing various racial backgrounds, including Anok Yai, Sun Mizrahi, and Mika Schneider.
Kevin Mazur/Getty Images
But still, there’s something to ponder: though there were more body sizes on the runway, the attire they were fitted with left much to be desired, and, most notably, was much worse than what the slimmer models wore. Covered stomachs, slip dresses, leggings—really think about that, leggings—and not the fun PINK leggings that the younger Angels used to wear, but bedazzled black leggings that were perhaps meant to be marketed as ‘sexy’? Sorry but, yuck!
Victoria’s Secret 2.0 ?
With the big names and increased inclusivity, I’m sure VS felt as though they’d given the audience what they wanted, but unfortunately, the feedback from the show wasn’t exactly positive.
I hate that the Victoria secret stripped everything back so much and took the fun elements out of the show that now has inclusivity in it. That association is dangerous and so fucking annoying to me. “ Now that it’s inclusive it isn’t fun”.
- @TheKimbino, X User
The looks were lacklustre, and there was a large public cry for the return of the bouncy blowouts instead of the tight slick-backs—where had the fun gone? Where was the glamour?
Runway design of old Victoria’s Secret Shows were so fun and dramatic. They could maybe cover the mediocrity of the looks they put on the runway today but of course they skipped that too just like they did with hair and make up…
- @beyzanurapaydin, X User
Though there were many complaints, much like the usual cycle of the internet, the cries for inclusivity seemed to disappear as soon as there was actually more inclusion of ‘plus-sized’ or simply not ‘stick thin’ models. Yawn.
One thing VS can learn is that no matter what they do, they’ll still upset the internet in one way or another.
As for me, I just want more fun, more glitter, MORE PINK! Bring back the old VS shows (of course with the same amount of inclusivity we saw this year).
It wasn’t a flop; they’re just getting started (I hope).
BABSII SCORE: 6.5/10
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