She’s A Charmer: The Psychology behind our Obsession with Trinkets
By Olivia Ascough
This summer, I stumbled across psychoanalyst and writer Anouchka Grose’s Fashion: A Manifesto (2023), intrigued by its petite, pink presence on the shelves. I found that the piece took an unexpected look at fashion, promoting a new approach where we should hold our clothes to treat us more kindly, encouraging the reader to challenge conventional fashion rules and wear what comforts them.
Fashion: A Manifesto examined a range of perspectives on the position of fashion in our society. For instance, a “perfect fashion person’s” taste fluctuates with the latest crazes, yet their timing is succinct, with a twist added to differentiate from the crowd. Grose further argued that, due to the restructuring of the market, there is less hierarchy in who we should look to for inspiration on how we dress, leaving individuals free to wear whatever, whenever, and wherever they want. However, I found Grose’s claim that styles at the height of elegance contain within them the potential to be tacky and shameful most notable—this statement symbolizes the power of fashion to shift our perspective and find beauty in ugliness.
Upon reflection on these ideas, I thought of the recent revival of trinkets in our wardrobes. In itself, the definition of “trinket”—a small ornament or item of little value—conveys the duality of the trend and its power to translate on both the high street and in high fashion. The Coach SS25 collection I had seen previously that week, plastered over Instagram, sprang to mind, with Creative Director Stuart Vevers aiming to “propose an idea of luxury that is personal rather than perfect.” Catering to Gen Z’s burgeoning aesthetic, the collection blended vintage and new pieces and was characterized by a sense of fun. Bags and trainers are adorned with charms, reminiscent of Jane Birkin’s iconic styling of one of fashion’s most coveted accessories, thus creating more accessible trends that can be achieved both with and without a budget.
As for our obsession with Miffy, Snoopy, Sonny Angels, and more weird but wonderful characters, their rise in popularity comes as no surprise, with the toys-for-adults market now worth over £1 billion in the UK. This rebirth is reminiscent of the Furby and Tamagotchi-fueled frenzy that was the 90s—more odd yet lovable creations that are still popular today, evidencing how the trend has repackaged itself over time, modernizing what was for many fond memories of the past. Cult brands like Heaven by Marc Jacobs, Chopova Lowena, and Mimi Wade have caught on to the widespread return to childhood, solidifying the trend's ability to respond to a breadth of different consumers.
Returning to Fashion: A Manifesto, applying Grose’s theory provides a psychoanalytical explanation for the trinket trend, which may not have been considered previously. In her own words, “No matter how hideous a particular style of clothing may seem, it can be elevated to a desirable status.” The nostalgia and playfulness that these trinkets hold spark both our desire for creativity and comfort when dressing, thus catapulting the trend to the height of fashion.