Fashion Week: Highlights from Milan

Fashion Week: Highlights from Milan 

By Evie Allen-Jones

Another Milan Fashion Week ticked off and of course, there is a lot to catch up on. It was a very exciting Spring/Summer season in Milan, with many brands stepping out of their comfort zones and experimenting with some new ideas… I have curated a list of some of my highlights both good and bad. 

Look 1, Versace, Spring-Summer 2024

Versace

 The Versace show left me with mixed feelings. It had some exciting elements, some beautiful gold sequin pieces worn by Anok Yai, Yasmin Wijnaldum and Vittoria Ceretti which were made of 3D-printed recycled nylon polymers. Donatella Versace explored a babydoll youthfulness with her pastels and slip dresses. There was less sex appeal than usual, with Versace leaning more toward the sweetness.  The use of pastel purple and yellow, reminded me of the 2004 Versace Spring collection. 

The standouts to me were, of course, the accessories. Versace did something unique by incorporating their fragrances on the runway. They had the models wear bracelets with mini Versace Diamond perfumes and carry perfume clutches. I thought this was a unique touch and added some fun. Overall, it wasn’t my favourite Versace collection, but it definitely had some good ideas to take forward to next season. 

Prada

Prada seems to have become the darling of the season and I completely understand why. It was a vibrant, futurist and fresh collection from Prada. 

Look 16, Prada, SS 2024 Womenswear 

Raf Simmons and Miuccia Prada work together on Prada collections and whilst Prada has had some strong pieces in the last few years, it hasn’t had a show as strong as this. Last season, I wanted Prada to take some notes from Miuccia’s other brand, Miu Miu. The Fall/Winter 24 Collection from Miu Miu played with bright colours and included strong tailoring, as well as gorgeous accessories. 

Raf and Mrs Prada clearly listened. This collection had fabulous accessories ranging from reflective bags, 70s space-age oversized glasses and brogues with espadrille soles last seen in Prada 2010. It was a mixture of science, sophistication, and fun. Prada finally got out of their own way and made a gorgeous show. I believe, as well as others online, that this will be a Prada collection that will be referenced to death in the future. It will be an iconic one, that future generations look back on. 

Bottega Veneta

My favourite show of Milan was Bottega, coincidently my favourite brand. Matthieu Blazy has taken Bottega and whilst maintaining its classic vibe, has also elevated it. 

Look 1, Bottega Veneta Spring-Summer 2025

Tailoring has always been strong in the collections, and this was no different. It included beautifully cut suits, referencing American Psycho’s Patrick Bateman. It also had some beautiful mixing of grey suits with a butter yellow shirt peeking out, paired with a large pink clutch. Chefs kiss. 

Similar to the other collections, the accessories also were a great addition to the show. Blazy added crotched flower bouquets to the bags and had animal motifs woven throughout. Little frogs and bunnies were hidden in the clothes and shoes. Guests of the show also sat on animal bean bags to watch the show, each apparently matching their personality, how cute! 

Gucci

The brand with arguably the most pressure on it currently, is Gucci. Sabato De Sarno replaced Alessandro Michelle at Gucci in 2023 and every collection has been under a microscope ever since. 

I have really enjoyed the pivot back to the simplicity that Gucci has been exploring. Whilst Alessandro had some incredible collections, Gucci began to lose its way during the later end of his tenure as Creative Director. When it is melted down, Gucci is a commercial brand and can be easily sold to consumers. Sometimes what is boring to some, is successful business. Sabato’s collections have been simple but they are incredibly commercial. 

I thought the collection was very strong and had (again) some amazing accessories, which is good for Gucci. The 60s Italian style was prominent through the large round sunglasses, sun hats and headscarves. It was a chic collection that was cohesive and looked well-made. It wasn’t revolutionary but it proved that Sabato is getting more comfortable, which I am excited about. 

Milan was a colourful breath of fresh air! I hope to see more amazing accessories and brands stepping out of their comfort zones in the year to come!